The A to DDs (and Beyond) of Bra Fitting
Many women today struggle with getting their right bra size. Unfortunately, most high street stores only go up to a certain cup size. This causes women to go up or down so many back sizes to get their “right” cup size, leaving them with a bra that can cause overspill, pinching, and even shoulder pain!
There are so many factors to take into account when it comes to bras. For example, what style works for you, the thickness of bra straps, and the materials used. Some women find that a firmer material works better for their shape, whilst others prefer a moulded cup or a stretchy lace style. It all comes down to personal preference.
Now for the interesting stuff: Around 80% of ladies are wearing the wrong size bra, which is pretty mind-blowing. So many people are so used to seeing 32-38 back bands and A-DD cup sizes in stores they don’t realize there are so many other sizes in between that spectrum. There are fuller bust sizes as well as, plus sizes or curve sizes too. A fuller bust size normally comprises smaller back bands and larger cups, whilst curve sizes usually consist of a range of back band sizes as well as cup sizes!
Think Outside of the Cup
Unfortunately, consumers are so used to the A-DD market that there is not nearly enough of a higher demand for more sizing options, nor is there enough awareness of them either. There are so many bra size possibilities and combinations you can be. Did you know you could be wearing a 36DD all your adult life, only to find out you’re a 32FF or a 32G? Or, you could be wearing a 32D because that’s the smallest back band you can get your hands on, only to find out you are, in fact, a 28E/F or even a 26 back. The same can be said if you were wearing a 42C and you end up being a 38H. There are honestly so many options, it’s just knowing where to go to find them! I quite like brands such as Bravissimo, Curvy Kate and Panache for more specialized fits, as their bras are very similar in terms of sizing. They all either provide online or in-store lingerie fitting services to give you a really good idea of your correct size. Though it is always important to note that you could be one size in one brand and a completely different size in another, so here are a few key tips to help you find that perfect fit!
Finding the Perfect Fit
1. Always remember to put your bra on the furthest hook when it’s new. This is to give you long-lasting support until it stretches out. Once it stretches out, that’s when you know to adjust to the middle hook. Then gradually you move to the tightest hook, once you feel the bra has had a lot of stretch and is worn in. Remember, bras have a shelf life of around 6-8 months, depending on how much wear it. It’s also good to swap over bras you wear regularly, so you can ease yourself into your new bra a day at a time. This brings me to my next step.
2. Make sure your bra is firm! Did you know you get 80% of your support from the back band and only 20% from the straps? You want to make sure you can fit one finger around the back band with ease whilst it’s on the loosest hook. If you have a lot of give, I recommend going down a back-band size. If it’s too tight, then go a back band-size up. Just remember to keep the cup the same. To do this, when you go down a size in the back you want to go up a size in the cup. When you go up a back-band size up you want to go down a size in the cup. This will make sure the cup size stays the same. Switching between back bands can also tell you your sister sizes. For example, a 32H would be the same as a 30HH as well as a 34GG.
You also don’t want your back band to ride up. If it is riding, I recommend trying a smaller back size. I will also add that it’s completely normal to notice a slight bulging around the armpits. This can be due to two reasons. One, it’s a newer bra, so it is a little firmer and requires some wearing in. The other reason is it’s giving you support around your back as well as your bust and is essentially an elastic band around you. So do not worry if you do get this.
3. Scooping and swooping! It’s always good to use this method. A jiggle into the cups is just as efficient as well! You want to put your hand into the cup normally from the sides and scoop forward the breast tissue to make sure it isn’t sitting on the wires, but sitting above them instead. This distributes breast tissue evenly across the cups.
4. WIRES. You want to make sure the gore of the bra is sitting flat against your rib cage. If it isn’t, this is normally a sign that it’s too small in the cup, the back band is too loose, or sometimes it could just be the style. I’d also recommend paying close attention to where your breast root starts as this will give you a good indication of where your wires should sit too. Just remember to make sure wires aren’t resting on your breast and below them instead. It’s also good to remember that if you’re able to, don’t twist and flip your bras up. This will move the wires of the bra around, which can cause rubbing on the rib cage. It can also shorten the life of your bras; twisted wires can cause a lot of discomfort.
5. Lastly, bra straps! You always want a two-finger tension on the straps. To do this, put two fingers underneath the straps on your shoulders. Of course, it depends on you and where it’s comfortable for you to place your straps. Strap discomfort can come from a back band that is too loose. This will set the straps apart further from each other, which normally would make them slip off your shoulders. It can also depend on the thinness of your straps. If your straps are too thin, it can cause discomfort, especially if you have a fuller bust you may not be as supported as you’d like.
So, these are my key steps to finding a good fitting bra, as well as your correct bra size. Once you get your size, it can be a lot easier to find styles, brands, and shapes that work well for you. Of course, it can take a bit of practice and you may need to try on a few different styles to get a good idea of what styles work and what ones don’t. I really recommend getting fitted every 8-12 months, as your bust is always changing. Happy bra hunting!