by Mars Dilbert

From Mars:
Dabbling in La Belle Epoque

Hello again, vintage family.
 
Summer is upon us, and despite the current climate of toxicity coming at us from all angles, viral and otherwise, we keep our focus on love, humanity and compassion. That said, without further ado I am here to speak on, and highlight, the niceties and beauty of Edwardian and Victorian fashion. The Victorian period and Edwardian period are primarily divided by a slight time line. The Victorian era began in 1837, during the rule of Queen Victoria in the United Kingdom, whilst the Edwardian era corresponds to the reign of England’s King Edward VII – 1901 – 1910. La Belle Epoque refers to the time between 1871 – 1914. So the Edwardian era falls within La Belle Epoque.
 
Today, with so much time on our hands, and Netflix notwithstanding, I began in April to watch period dramas; Ophelia, the amazing Crimson Peak (not my usual genre, as I’m the first to admit being a scaredy cat) and, of course, Madame Bovary. This ignited a spark in me, to veer away, albeit a temporary sojourn, from my usual penchant for 1940’s and equestrian styles. Having acquired a beautiful antique period dress earlier in the year from a good friend and fellow collector, I decided to do a quick no frills shoot in my garden. 
 
I’d had the dress for a while and it came in, let’s say, ‘failing condition’, with extensive mildew and sun damage. I worked diligently on the dress to bring it back to life. I mention this as a tip to be aware of when finding period garments that have some damage. It’s par for the course being so old that wear and tear, and oftentimes neglect, could be a part of the ‘story’ of the piece. Don’t be deterred. With a little research, patience, elbow grease and TLC, most things can be revived and brought back to their former glory. The work involved, for me, just adds to the romance of wearing the piece. Whether it’s sewing, repairing, reconstructing, styling, it’s all a part of the build. I was recently commissioned to recreate a portrait of the iconic Mary Seacole, in her Victorian finery – a project that lead my research further to discover the beauty of this period and how all women, regardless of race and ethnicity, looked in this period. Stunning is the best word I can personally come up with. From the bustle to the mutton sleeves, it’s so unique, and so feminine it deserves to be celebrated. 

There is so much to cover on these eras that I couldn’t possibly do it in one article. From gowns to blouses, bodices to bustles, boots to shoes, and hats to parasols, and every adornment in between. So here’s my introduction to this Belle Epoque, and I look forward to following up soon. Enjoy. 

The Victorian Woman

Victorian women’s fashion was not about comfort. Hourglass-shaped corsets compressed the abdomen, forcing it downward. They were typically V-shaped at the bustline. Skirts were wide and bell-shaped, made from stiff linen. It wasn’t unusual for a woman to wear six petticoats that, in total, weighed as much as 14 pounds. By the mid-1850s, however, crinoline and cage hoops had replaced heavy petticoats, and by the middle of the Victorian era, bustles replaced hoop skirts. Victorian women also wore lavishly trimmed bonnets until around 1890.

The Edwardian Woman

A new corset shape emerged during the last 10 years of the Victorian era, and was popular throughout the Edwardian period. Known as the “health” corset, it allowed women to breathe a little more freely and was designed to support and raise the abdomen. Unlike the corsets of the Victorian era, corsets worn during the Edwardian period moved straight across the bustline and were designed to force the chest forward and hips back, giving a women’s profile has an S-shaped curve. Skirts in the early Edwardian era followed a trumpet bell shape, flaring over the hips and widening at the hemline. Ladies, if you haven’t got a corset in your wardrobe, it’s time. You’d be amazed. It’ll be a challenge at first, but you’ll love how it makes you feel and look.

Hat Styles

Hats were typically big, and dramatic. Wide brimmed Edwardian “Merry Widow” hats were adorned with large feathers. I’ve personally tried this with some great success by utilising old ostrich feathers, and ribbons I had knocking about in my ‘bits box’. Both styles lend themselves well to adornments and embellishing. I recommend you seek out lace, small beads, embroideries and brooches to ‘umph up’ the look. 

Sleeve Styles

Many different types of sleeve styles came and went during both periods. Early Victorian styles had dropped shoulders, with sleeve seams on the upper arm. The sleeves began with a tight fit, then puffed into a round, billowy shape. Over time the sleeves became tighter-fitting again just below the elbow before ending above the wrist. The typical Edwardian sleeve was more relaxed. Made from soft fabric, the sleeves puffed only slightly from the shoulder to the elbow, where they were cinched tightly with a ribbon. The bottom of the sleeve flared out from the elbow to the wrist in delicate hanging pleats, usually made from lace or an embroidered knit. Further emphasis of the hour-glass shape came from mutton sleeves. If we’re to recreate a style, ladies, sleeves can be made fairly easily with simple home made patterns. If you think of a mutton leg, it’s an easy shape to draw and make a pattern from. I hand sew everything to stay as authentic as I can to the periods, and even hand sewing a sleeve or two (if no machine is available) is not too big a task to tackle. Replacing sleeves on an existing garment that fits the aesthetic is a fun and challenging project, with great reward for your efforts. 

Crinolines and Bustles

By 1840, Oudinot-Lutel in Paris created the first crinoline petticoat or underskirt, and the focus became further widening of the skirt. While corsets created the thinner waistlines, sharp contrast was created through structural cages in the underskirt called crinolines. Crinolines created a hoop-skirt effect. The bustle, a padded skirt emphasizing the rear, made its debut in 1860. Throughout the remaining century, skirts moved away from the crinoline to the bustle and then eventually reduced and discarded the bustle as well. Whenever I’ve not found original pieces I’ve used my creativity to recreate the bustle when I can, and layering as many petticoats as I can from an assortment of sources. Use you’re imagination and have fun.

“Gibson Girl” by Charles Dana Gibson 

All fashion eras have their archetypes. The Gibson Girl was a fictitious, unnamed character portrayed in the illustrations of Charles Dana Gibson, who created what would become the feminine ideal for 20 years. Alice Roosevelt Longworth, the eldest daughter of Theodore Roosevelt, was a high profile society figure in the USA that fit this ideal.
 
We have much to thank these periods for. The fashion trends from these eras influenced much of the fashion trends that followed, even into present day. The most obvious examples are as follows. The 2-piece dress came into vogue. Skirts hung tight at the hips and flared at the hem, creating a trumpet or lily-like shape. Skirts in 1901 had decorated hems with ruffles of fabric and lace. Some dresses and skirts featured trains (for example wedding dresses). Short tailored jackets, first introduced in 1880, increased in popularity, and by 1900, tailored suits became hugely popular. Think Ralph Lauren, who’s mimicked this style for years and claimed it as his ‘look’. It’s not. By 1904 skirts became fuller and less clingy, and in 1905 skirts fell in soft folds that curved in, then flared out near the hemlines. Waistlines rose from 1905, and in 1910 the hobble skirt was introduced: a tight-fitting skirt that restricted a woman’s stride. These are just a few of what remains from this amazing period in women’s fashion. 
 
Thanks for listening everyone. In true Edwardian form, I’m off to have a glass of sherry. Take care out there, be safe and love one another. xx
 
Mars  
 
 

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This Post Has One Comment

  1. Misty S

    When I read this article, my first thought was wow this woman speaks my language… Beautifully written article!

    I am also intrigued with your comment about the corset… I have recently begun researching corsetry, and have found it to be a must for foundational undergarments… Not just for the silhouette it gives but also for the amazing support it gives to my back and bust…

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